How're Your O-Rings

I'll talk about your o-rings in a moment; first let's talk about your baskets.  They're located at the skimmer (the large opening at the  waterline) and over at the motor's pump housing.  They catch debris before they jam the motor's impeller (the enclosed fan that moves the water). Cleaning the baskets improves pumping efficiency and catches the icky stuff for you.  It's really a good idea to empty them.

CAUTION - Look before reaching in the skimmer area. I've found rats, snakes, and assorted venomous spiders lurking in skimmers.

CAUTION - Turn off the motor before checking the pump basket.  Remember, the timer could turn on the motor while you're working. Make sure everything will stay off!

Now to your o-rings.  Lubricate them with a waterproof silicone (not petroleum) lubricant.  This will save you money and reduce frustration.

O-rings are found at the pump basket lid and at piston style backwash handles.  Clean the pump basket lid o-ring and apply a thin film of lubricant.  Hand-tighten the lid. You shouldn't need a specialty wrench.  Over-tightening causes lid fractures and air leaks. Any air leak will prevent the pump from priming (drawing water).  After starting the pump and "catching prime" use the air relief valve on top of the filter tank to remove the air that has entered the system.

CAUTION - Running the motor without successful priming or running the motor dry will ruin it.

Piston style backwash handles are found attached to the filter.  Removing retaining screws allows you to pull the handle entirely out of the housing.  If it won't budge beyond a certain point, try a tiny amount of dish soap.  There will be several o-rings on the piston (a small one is hidden by plastic). Check them for damage or swelling. Lubricate with the silicone lubricant.

Lubricating these o-rings prevents them from rolling out of their channels and getting pinned between the piston and the piston housing.  You won't have to pull so hard and you won't have to pay for an expensive new piston or piston housing.
 

Building a Pool? Consider These Points

Having serviced hundreds of pools for thirty years, we'd like you to consider the following:

• You can decline most of the bells and whistles the builder/salesman suggests and still have a nice pool
• Unless you intend to entertain the neighborhood, a ten to fifteen thousand gallon pool is great
• In floor "cleaning" systems have limited benefits.  They blow - literally.  Instead, choose a system that actively sweeps and vacuums debris.  Consider Hayward, Polaris, Kreepy Krauly, or Baracuda products
• Choose a sand filter for ease of use and low cost. If you want fine filtration use a diatomaceous earth (DE) filter.  DE's require more maintenance.  DE powder substitutes are available.  Avoid cartridge filtration.
• Plaster pool surfaces decline in a few years. Upgrade to plaster with additives or choose a pebble finish
• Dark pool finishes increase pool temperatures
• Tile your waterline to fight hard water deposits
• Salt systems are expensive, require more work on your part, and wear out faster than advertised. We remove more than we install.
• We rarely install an ozone or UV systems
• Fancy pool lights cost a lot to fix
• Diving boards and slides come with risks
• Add a spa and double your costs
• Include deck holes for umbrellas, volleyball, basketball
• New pool plaster requires more brushing and filtering than the builder typically indicates. 
• New pool water needs additional chemicals
• Pool surfaces continue to interact with water chemistry for years
• Really check out your contractor thoroughly!!!!! Do you due diligence before it's too late.

Filtration Tips

If your filtration media (sand, diatomaceous earth, or cartridge) are in good condition and clean they remove most of the small particles clouding pool water. Adding clarifiers helps filters capture very fine particles by binding them into larger particles.  Also, keep landscaping plants and gravels away from the pool.  Set your timer to completely cycle the pool water through the filter.

Use chlorine (there are other choices besides chlorine) to sanitize the water and to kill the algae that turns the water green or surfaces slimy.  You've got a tougher issue if the pool has black algae which sends roots into the pool surface.  There's more to it than just dumping chlorine into the water.

If your filtration is working and the water chemistry correct then your costs should be lower and water very clear.

Have You Checked Your Pondus Hydrogenii?

If so, then you have some idea of your pool's acidity. Pondus Hydrogenii, potential hydrogen, is the amount and activity of Hydrogen ions in an aqueous solution. This is the pH in acidity tests.

Testing for pH usually involves a color scale using a phenol red indicator.  Phenol red only measures pH 6.8 to 8.4.  The acidity could be way beyond 8.4 and you wouldn't know it.  (I've seen solid metal pump impellers dissolved to stubs by acidic water.)  Use acid or base demand reagents to determine how far the pH level is off from the measurable range of phenol red.

High levels of chlorine or bromine can alter your readings.  At pH levels above 6.6, very high chlorine levels (10 parts per million) will react with the phenol red to create a dark purple associated with higher pH.  Use sodium thiosulfate reagent to neutralize the chlorine or bromine.  Then get an accurate reading.  Just read the instructions on those test kits.  You can save on chlorine and pump time costs.

  Have your pool water analyzed at our store.